An Egyptian wedding

Last night was indescribable. But I'll try! My friend Muhammad (who is quite enamored with me) invited Walt and I to attend his friend's wedding last night, and we of course accepted. Who knows when (if) we'll have such a chance again! I'll post pictures soon. The wedding took place in the Khan al-Khalili neighborhood, which is a bustling marketplace (and tourist trap) in Old Cairo. We arrived at 1am (the reception was from 11pm to 6am), and followed Muhammad through a maze of back streets until we reached the wedding - in a section of road which had been blocked off, filled with tables and chairs, and hung heavily with tapestries and lights. There were two stages - on the main stage there was a band and two bellydancers, while off to the side was a smaller stage where the bride and groom held court. Walt, Rob, Nick and I were the only white people at the wedding, or in the whole neighborhood for that matter. We felt a little overdressed, as we had prepared ourselves for a lavish affair, but everyone was welcoming as usual. Muhammad's family is extremely well-connected in Old Cairo (in fact, it seems they own most of the marketplace), and his friends were everywhere. We stayed for hours and soaked in as much as we could - talk about sensory overload! The bellydancers were both young, probably around my age, and there was very mutual appreciation between them and the American boys. They were wonderful dancers, but it was clear that bellydancing has fallen far from the high entertainment it once was.

Muhammad is incredibly hospitable, and he wants to have all of us to his family home, to experience his mother's cooking and meet his sister. I am continually amazed by people who will throw their doors open to visitors and strangers, and expect nothing in return.

The past week has actually been full of wonderful cultural experiences. On Tuesday night, Sara's friend Dan took us to a local cultural center for a Nubian concert and dance performance. The center is a really funky place, and we were sitting less than 2 feet from the dancers, in an audience of only about 30. In the middle of the show, the dancers brought most of the women from the audience to join the dance - what a blast! I'd been itching to move the whole time - Nubian music is full of joyful drumming and singing, and the dancing consists most of swaying and clapping - and I was swung around the dance floor by a really handsome young man. Also, that night was the first time I tried wearing a headscarf - not in the hijab style, but wrapped around into a large bun at the back - and it felt very natural. I've gotten to the point where it feels odd to see women (outside of campus) with their hair uncovered, even though of course I am one of them.

On the way back from the dancing, Charlie got hit by a car! He's absolutely fine, he was just a little bruised and shaken. We all joke about how dangerous it is to cross the road here, but yikes! This was our first (and, inshallah, only) casualty - I promise I am being extra careful!

On Wednesday night, Sara, Walt and I went to see Sufi dancers in Khan al-Khalili. It was a very tourist-oriented performance, with less of the intense mystical energy that is associated with the Sufi tradition, but it was still a wonderful spectacle! The men spin incessantly, pulling layers of bright fabric from their skirts as they twirl, balancing things on their heads - felt like the circus! Overall, an exhilarating experience.

This morning I had my first field trip for Art and Architecture of the City of Cairo - we went to the mosque of Ibn Tulun. It was absolutely huge, really grand and impressive and lovely. My professor is an adorable woman, and she's incredibly knowledgeable. This class is a great way to learn more about the history of the city, and to simultaneously visit everything I get to learn about. Also, today I (finally) went to the Egyptian Museum for a few hours. It is absolutely jam-packed with stuff, in a roughly chronological jumble. Most of the information cards haven't been updated since the museum opened c. 1910, and some cases have no cards at all! It's like a treasure hunt! Even though it was packed with tourists, we found plenty of rooms empty of tour groups and full of incredible artifacts. We also made our obligatory trip to both mummy rooms - those that still have hair are truly eerie. How incredible that we can actually stand next to human beings who lived three thousand years ago. I'll definitely go back - it would take days to see everything.

Whew! What a week! Much more to say, I'm sure, but I'm a little worn out for now. I'd love to hear from any and all of you! My e-mail address is mgmives@gmail.com, and Mom and Dad have an inexpensive way to reach me by phone if you'd like.